If you are going to shop wood floor products on the market these days, you will truly find the choices so overwhelming. Typically, because expansion of the hardwood flooring will occur in the direction of the tongue, there are several things that you can do to offset expanding wood. First of all, depending on the size of the room, you may want to start at the center to help offset initial expansion as the wood gets acclimated to the room. In most cases, flooring that requires to be glued down is not used on solid hardwood (most are nailed down) and therefore expansion with glue down floors rarely happens because most glue down flooring uses engineered wood. Unlike solid wood, engineered wood is not as likely to expand and if it does, the expansion won’t be as intense.
With the floating floor, the entire floor will expand and contract as opposed to glued-down or nailed floors in which individual planks or rows will create the problem. As if this wasn’t enough, how much a hardwood floor will expand and contract depends greatly on the specie of wood as well as the humidity in the environment of the home. Most heartwood is clear grade and not used in homes as it is more expensive although there are fewer flaws in the wood. Once the wood starts to crack they are no good as planks, but can still be broken up and used as chips.
This method was used by Northwest Coast natives, who had cedar planks and Pacific salmon readily available. I just looked at and they have a good assortment there, though they seem a little pricier but I think that is because the planks advertized are the really long ones for doing a whole fish. The belt sander is great for turning most any old piece of scrap wood into a workable piece of wood for many woodworking DIY projects.
Also, once the stairs are taken back to bare wood and the wooden floor on the upper landing made good the rest of the hallway and landing will need re-decorating with a fresh lick of paint; once any necessary minor repairs and preparations are made. The stair treads are pine with an 18mm (3/4 inch) nosing over the risers, the risers are probably box wood, the stringers (the side wooden planks that hold the treads and risers in position) are embedded into the walls either side, with a handrail securely fixed to the wall on one side.
Many years ago, the first time we decorated the hall and stairways, we stripped the handrail back to wood and wood stained it so this time round little needs doing other than a quick clean and varnish; adding varnish as an extra protective layer to provide additional durability and to make cleaning easier. The first task is remodelling the stairs, taking the treads (steps) back to bare wood ready for varnishing. I prefer wood for stairs and kitchens, and carpet for bedrooms and living rooms.